Topic: Tow Cars

Instructors: Grant & Ruthe Garagnon


Instructors are with Blue Ox. Part of enjoying the RV lifestyle is knowing how to select and use the right equipment.

A bit about towing: It's a very pleasurable experience if it's done right.

But the chain is no stronger than its weakest link. Here it's crucial to understand "rating". Tow bars are rated, but so too are safety chains, shanks, receiver, tow balls, etc.

Car caddy is one option, but because of the added cost, weight, storage requirement, and inconvenience most RVers are looking for a more suitable option.

A Frame towbar is the "old fashioned way", although very economical. In some states the law now requires that you take this whole towbar completely off if you want to use the tow vehicle.

The car mount self aligning towbar is mounted on the tow vehicle is the next generation. These are easier to hitch up, but they have disadvantages such as too much weight on the front end for small tow cars. For smaller cars, it's wise to take them off the tow car when not in use too.

The latest generation is motorhome mounted, and fits right into the motorhome's receiver. It also is self-aligning. The benefit here is that once you arrive at your destination you don't have a towbar to deal with, because it stays on the back of the motorhome.

Note, with all the above towbars the design absolutely precludes backing. Backing up will void the towbar warranty.

A new entry is the "Backable Towing System". It's scissor arms, and by M&G. Some are skeptical whether this will actually provide fool-proof backing.

A drive shaft disconnect made by Remco can uncouple the drive shaft in such a way that most vehicles can be made suitable for towing "four down". But it's not user friendly, and it takes care and feeding. It's an excellent product, but it makes the towing process significantly more cumbersome. These are for rear wheel drive cars. For front wheel drive cars the analogous product is an front drive axle disconnect. Other cars may require a pump to lubricate the transmission while towing. Some cars, despite these options, still are not suitable for towing.

If you're not sure whether a car can be MADE towable, call Remco -- BEFORE you purchase the tow car. They will tell you exactly what you'll need to tow the vehicle.

Of course some cars can be towed four down without all these problems. Because they're MADE to be towed without a dolly, and without any Remco type device to modify it for towing. These will be much less cumbersome.

Enter now the baseplate -- that portion of the towing system which attaches to the front end of the toad's frame. That's what the towbar attaches to. Every car needs a baseplate specifically designed for it.

Most popular tow car is Saturn. It is completely ready to tow; second most popular is Jeep Grand Cherokee. Honda CRV is only Honda that won't void warranty if you tow it.

Two things are required by law: You'll need either a light bar or run the toad's light, turn and brake lights; and the second is safety cables. The safety cables or chains need to be crossed to form a "cradle" under the point of connection. The safety chains or cables also have a rating which much be greater than the weight of the toad.

About the "angle" of towbar. It's best if it's purely horizontal. But if the toad is small and the back of the motorhome is high, this becomes increasingly troublesome in panic stops. Troublesome elevation differences can be corrected with a "drop receiver".

Care and feeding of towbar. Never use WD-40. Always use silicone spray. Use lots of silicone spray on all the moving parts.

Hooking Up: Once you have it all ready to go

Never back up

Don't be distracted until you complete all the steps -- you'll forget one step

Always doublecheck yourself; and have your copilot do the same.

Pull the car up behind the motorhome to a point that it will be within "reach" of the towbar. Then attach the locking pins. Now it needs to be fully extended and locked -- both sides. This is done by backing up the toad.

Have heater motor off and radio off. Otherwise you'll arrive with a dead battery.

To detach: If you have the chance, get motorhome and tow car aligned straight. Come to a rolling gentle stop to avoid strain on the hitch. If there's still tension, turn steering wheel even though it's locked, it will relieve the tension and it will now unlock and the pins will come out easily.


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