We've done lots of travelogues for RVers based on our travels around the U.S., Canada and Mexico. When we come back home to our own beautiful San Juan Islands, off the northwest coast of Washington,we tend to forget that many RVers come to the Northwest in part to visit the very islands where we live. You should know that when we're at our "home park" in Anacortes we invariably chat with RVers who learn we live in Friday Harbor and ask us lots of questions about how to get there, whether to take an RV or car, and what to do and see when you're in the Islands. Our purpose here is to remedy the long standing omission at our own website, and give a bit of a sneak preview for RVers interested in visiting the San Juan Islands.
The group of islands referred to locally as "the San Juans" number in the hundreds, with the number being highest when the tides are lowest. Most of the population is found on our four "ferry served" islands -- San Juan, Orcas, Lopez and Shaw. There are smaller populations on some of the non ferry served islands, which are generally referred to as the "Outer Islands". Each of the ferry served islands has a distinct personality.
The county seat and largest population is found on the island furthest from Anacortes, San Juan Island. Here the ferry lands right in the middle of the small village of Friday Harbor, with its shops restaurants, motels and tourist services. Orcas Island is very slightly larger in terms of topography, but is more oriented to vacation homes. Its population is a bit less. Here you can drive to the highest peak in our island archepelago, Mt. Constitution. Lopez, the "friendly island" (all the locals wave to everyone passing by), is more to the bikers liking, as it is generally less hilly. And its quaint village is much smaller than found on either San Juan or Orcas. Finally, Shaw Island is smallest in both size and population. Although there is a small general store near the ferry landing, it is otherwise "commercial free", with no restaurants or overnight facilities (save for a few spaces at its small country park).
RVers are often confused about the best ways for "seeing" the Islands. There are several choices, and a range of options across both the convenience and expense spectrums. The least expensive way is also the most convenient one: either park your car near the Anacortes ferry terminal or take public transportation there -- and be a "walk on" passenger. By not taking a car, you'll be sure to get on the next ferry going to your destination island. And you'll be sure of getting on the boat you've chosen for the return trip as well. If you choose Friday Harbor (San Juan Island) to visit, you'll find yourself disembarking right in the middle of town, and the shopping, restaurants, motels, and even the local airport are all within walking distance. If you want to tour the island, consider renting a car, moped or the newest "scootcar" (a wonderful compromise between car and moped) from Susie's Mopeds. That way the "walk on" passenger can design his or her own tour of the Island.
If you take a car, you'll pay about $28 for the round trip, car and driver; plus about $7 per additional passenger (the walk on rate). The good news is that's the round trip fare -- you won't pay on the return trip. Fares are lower in the non-peak months; and fares to Orcas, Lopez and Shaw are a bit less. Once you're in Friday Harbor, you can travel without further cost to any "eastbound" island (e.g. Orcas or Lopez) for free -- with our without your car. Ferry fares on the "inter-island run" are only collected for westbound travel. Unfortunately fares are not the only consideration during the busy summer months. Many of the ferries will have so many cars wanting to go that there will not be enough space for all to get on. When that happens, your only option is to wait for the next boat -- usually several hours later. The walk-on passengers of course always get on, since there's more space for people than cars.
If you take your RV, you'll have not only the challenges of those taking a car, but a couple more as well. First, the fares for tall (e.g., bikes on top) or long (over 20 feet) vehicles are dramatically higher. It would cost us nearly $100 to take our 36' motorhome. But equally challenging is the fact that RV accommodations in the Islands are extremely limited. Unless you have a reserved place to stay, and don't mind the high cost of taking an RV on the ferry, we'd strongly recommend either walking on or taking a car. When staying at Fidalgo Bay RV park, ask about the availability of "on site storage" if you're going to be gone for more than just the day.
Possibly because we live there, our usual recommendation is that if you have time to see just one island, we think San Juan Island should be your choice (even though the attractions at the other islands are substantial too...). While there are some stores and shops at Orcas Landing, where the ferry docks on Orcas Island, the Island's primary shopping and commercial area is a 10-15 minute drive. The Lopez village is about a 10 minute drive from the ferry terminal. And Shaw Island, while beautiful to walk or bike, has no village at all. With the caveat that visitors would enjoy the charm of each of the ferry served islands, we'll offer a few tips for those who choose to visit Friday Harbor, on San Juan Island.
For those arriving as "walk ons" and are content to see as much as possible by walking, you'll have plenty to occupy a full day here. A good bet would be to take the Friday Harbor sailing that leaves Anacortes around 8:00 AM, and plan to return on a mid- or late afternoon sailing back to Anacortes. While in town, you'll want to sample all the local sights. We'd suggest a long walk on the docks at the Port of Friday Harbor. If you like, take one of the whale watching boats that sails from there -- you'll have an excellent chance of seeing some of our local Orcas ("killer whales") in action. For visitors, these are prized sightings; and seeing them up close from small boats is something to be remembered. (For some of us that regularly enjoy fishing for salmon in the same waters, in time they are a bit of a nuisance as well, since they'll inevitably scare all the salmon away!) And speaking of killer whales, even if you don't go out into the local waters to find them, you'll get a fabulous lesson about them at our local "Whale Museum" -- a must see when visiting Friday Harbor. There are lots of specialty shops in town, with many visitors finding things here they've seen nowhere else. And you'll have an excellent array of restaurants from which to choose for lunch. One that visitors frequently enjoy on a warm, sunny day is called Downriggers. It's on the waterfront and only about a block north of the ferry landing. Lunch outside on the deck overlooking the harbor is a favorite of locals as well.
If you bring a car, your horizons are expanded exponentially. Most of the tourist literature will lead you to Roche Harbor, at the northwest corner of the Island. It's home to a beautiful old Victorian hotel with manicured English gardens, and it boasts a marina that is a favorite among Northwest mariners. It also makes a wonderful lunch stop. The tourist books will occasionally mention the views along the west side of the Island, looking out towards Victoria, BC. Following the somewhat narrow roads along the west side will invariably provide fabulous vistas, and during the summer you'll frequently spot Orcas from these vantage points as well.
The Island is known for a bit of history, and it has two National Historic Parks that preserve military garrisons for English troops (north end, near Roche Harbor); and American troops (a much larger area encompassing much of the south end of the Island). These make excellent stops, and there are some wonderful walks, and historical information in both Parks. You'll learn these long abandoned military outposts are preserved to commemorate the "Pig War" -- a war between the U.S. and England that, happily, was never fought. In the mid-18th Century both England and the United States claimed San Juan Island as sovereign territory. When an English farmer's pig wandered into an American settler's garden and was shot by the American, the two sides came perilously close to armed conflict. However, and the story here is much longer and more interesting, it was ultimately settled by arbitration by Kaiser Wilhelm of Germany -- and the Island became the property of the United States. Reportedly it was incredibly boring being stationed in either of these outposts waiting for the squabble to be settled. There was little to do here then. One of the American soldiers, a Private with the last name of "Roberts", spent his time writing a long dissertation that eventually would become famous -- "Roberts Rules of Order".
Here are a couple of tips the tourist books likely won't know about:
1. On a low tide: drive to the south tip of the Island. You'll see an abandoned lighthouse at the extreme southernmost point. Park nearby, and walk out to the lighthouse. You'll see a few rough trails scrambling down the cliff (perhaps 100 vertical feet) to the shore. If you don't mind a bit of a steep and slippery climb (it can't be too bad because I do it), find your way to the bottom. There you'll see some of the most "alive" tide pools you'll find anywhere. All shapes, sizes and colors of critters. You'll see mussels that are over six inches in length -- but don't disturb them, they're protected. The University of Washington's Marine Biology labs loves to bring students here as part of their class instruction.
2. Want a great hike? Keep going past the lighthouse as far as the road will take you -- bearing left. Don't park in the private marina, but outside of it along the roadway. At the road's end, find a "beaten path" through the tall grass. In about 100 feet it will take you to some signs proclaiming the land is jointly owned by various State agencies and the local land trust. Follow the path to the lagoon -- about a quarter mile away. But approach slowly and quietly, because you're almost sure to encounter some very interesting birds. Blue herons, bald eagles, oyster catchers, and an impressive array of waterfowl. You'll also find yourself on a narrow but spectacular beach between the lagoon and Griffen Bay. If you're in for about a 3 mile hike, go past the lagoon on the beach and then turn left on a fairly well defined path. It will in about 100 yards join a more major trail. Go right (west). Follow this trail through the woods, and in about a half mile you'll come out at on the road you took driving to the lighthouse. Don't cross the road, but instead take the trail to the left (southeast). It will take you up and across the highest bluffs on the south end of the island, with fabulous views in all directions, and provide a short cut to the lighthouse area. You're then only about a half mile from where you parked near the private marina.
But the San Juan Islands are only part of this story. We think our visiting RV guests would be interested in learning a bit about the option of visiting Vancouver Island and very English town of Victoria. We've offered a few tips and suggestion on those options in a separate article...
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